Open Shoulder

Please note: use white thread only when serging all seams and edges and when attaching ribbons.

Click here for the doll gown pattern. Print the pattern at 100% (it's a pdf file) onto 8.5"x11" paper. Once the pattern is printed, compare the ruler in the printout to another ruler to make sure the pattern is the correct size.

After printing the pattern and confirming the correct size, you may find it helpful to trace the pattern onto heavy plastic. A plastic pattern makes quick work of marking the pattern onto the fabric with a permanent marker, like a Sharpie ultra fine point pen. Be sure to cut away all the permanent markings.

Cut six ribbons 7” long. Tie half knot at one end of each ribbon. Pin under approx. 1/8”-1/4” at other end of each ribbon. Set ribbons aside.

Serge side seam; trim thread tail flush at bottom edge of side seam; leave thread tail at arm hole, about 1.5” long (much longer than it appears in photo); will be trimmed away later.

Serge arm hole opening (use tail left in step above to feed seam through serger, trim tail before seam goes under the needle); trim thread tails flush on each end:

Serge shoulder seam; leave 1.5” thread tail at neck edge; feed thread tail back into seam at arm hole edge; trim flush with edge:

Serge other side seam; trim thread tail flush with bottom edge; leave 1.5” thread tail at arm hole edge:

You are ready to serge all around the remaining raw edges of the gown:

Prepare serger for serging all around the remaining edge of gown. Raise presser foot and needle to highest position. Pull small amount of thread free from needle. This will facilitate the start of the serged edge in the middle of the back bottom edge. When approaching the side seams, fold them under and towards the needle.

Turning corners:

Serge to within 1/4" of a corner.

Raise presser foot and needle to highest position; slip thread off the prongs of the serger by slightly pulling gown towards back of serger while wiggling the drive wheel. Turn gown 90° (it should turn easily once the threads have been slipped off the prongs. Lower needle at edge of previous line of serging. Before lowering presser foot, gather all threads and pull slightly to remove any slack in threads at gown.

Lower presser foot, and continue to serge to next corner.

When serging over shoulder seams, use thread tails to feed seam through presser foot. Trim thread tail before it passes under the needle, as you did when serging the arm hole edge earlier.

Before reaching the start of the serged edge, trim thread tail flush with bottom edge.

Serge up to and past the beginning of the serged edge by about .5”. With needle down, lift presser foot, rotate gown and serge off edge.

Work thread tail back through serging on back side of gown. Trim thread tail.

Heat iron to steam setting. Press shoulder and side seams flat.

Don’t forget to turn off your iron.

Attach ribbons:

To easily mark the placement of the ribbons on the center front edges, match the front edges together and fold in half. Finger press to leave mark for placement of ribbons.

Set sewing machine for zig-zag stitch (sample settings shown in picture). Attach ribbons 1” from edge on one side of front edge and on the edge on the other side of the front edge.

To easily mark the placement of the ribbons on the open shoulder edges, match the shoulder edges together and fold in half. Finger press to leave mark for placement of ribbons.

Trim threads, and you are DONE!